Monday 24 May 2010

Amsterdam's Two Faces


Amsterdam’s Two Faces

Arriving in Amsterdam, I had no idea what to expect. I heard the rumors of drug use and open prostitution, but I really could not comprehend the idea. Our group got off the train as excited as could be. It was time to have the Amsterdam Experience.

The night went completely as I had expected. There was the obvious mix between bars and coffee shops (as most college students would do the same). But then it was really about walking the streets and getting a sense of all that the Red Light District had to offer. Once you make your way outside, there is a definite energy. People crowded the streets as if there was a giant parade going on. Street after street we witnessed the same thing under the brightly lit neon signs; it was bars, coffee shops, food joints, and prostitutes. Our journey through the district lasted multiple hours into the night and we had not witnessed it all.

So we made it to bed and I woke up thinking, why is this place so much different then anywhere else in the world? I began to question if all of Holland was like this too. And so we started off again on another journey; this time we had an entire day to explore. But then we came across this .

These are the pillars that designate the Red Light District. Up to this point we have spent almost no time outside of these boundaries, except our five minute walk from the train. But when we left this distinct area, I experienced a very different Amsterdam. It was at this point I entered into Central Square (below).

Previously in the Red Light District, we were being hoarded through the tinny streets, dogging bikes, and covered from sun light from the tightly packed buildings. There were multiple coffee shops on every street. The flow of people was always moving so there was very little time to stop and talk. And there was the difference in law allowing women to sell sex out of their bedroom window. Also there were countless men on the side of the street looking to sell drugs. You would know because the dealer would say, “Cocaine”. One went as far as calling out American, trying to get our attention, when we were ten feet passed him.

But here in the open square, it seemed like the sky had cleared and the sun was shinning on us. People relaxed on the steps of the statue and nearby cafes. Also people had time to stop and have conversations. This was the place for relaxation, reflection, and gathering. In fact, I took this picture because we had taken a break to stop and rest our feet. The architecture was still very old but it was on a large scale compared to the little houses that lined the district.

But once I had this experience in the open, I began to see that most of Amsterdam and its history was outside the Red Light District. We took trips throughout that day to visit Heineken and the Vincent van Gogh museum. Once again I noticed that these destinations were more relaxed. The walk to the buildings was more open and the streets less clustered.

Its goes back to those pillars that signify the start and end of the Red Light District. They are permanent fixtures that explain a lot about the culture in and outside of the district. There was an obvious territory formed to contain this certain behavior and culture. The pillars bounded this social place and put in rules to help administrate government, law, safety, and policies.

I have come to the conclusion that in America, we connect Amsterdam with the Red Light District. To us they are the same thing. In Holland this is much different. The Red Light District is only a part of the larger city. Amsterdam is very old and full of history. The architecture and surrounding landscape is beautiful. It is not uncommon to walk past buildings hundreds of years old, to enter a large park with trees, grass areas, benches, and people just relaxing.

Those pillars mean more than just us college students going to have a good time. I encourage everyone to break past those lines and experience a completely different side of Amsterdam City. Here is a link to get you started (http://www.amsterdam.info/map/). This map has great parks, squares, and churches you should find to escape.


2 comments:

  1. This was a great travel story. It is interesting to see how a man saw the red light district compared to my view of it. I noticed the difference in pace and culture between the red light district and the districts further away from it. I also found that the architecture was incredible there. You did a good job incorporating the boundaries of city lines for the geography related part.

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  2. I agree Colleen, this was very well written and an interesting travel story. I had very similar views to the way you saw Amsterdam Chris, maybe because we are both guys and we did travel together. I noticed how the red light district was so crowded and busy with people moving all the time. But in the open square it was much more laid back with room to actually have a conversation with people around you. Nice analysis.

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